Anycubic Photon LCD/DLP/SLA 3D Printer
Anycubic Photon DLP is an easy-to-use 2.8-inch colour touchscreen 3D printer for stable offline printing. With an exceptional built-in cutter, cutting is done in minutes, and the 2K LCD masking screen provides fine detail. The creative structure and the air filter system create a healthy atmosphere and filter out bad smells. It works with resin. DLP stands for Digital Light Processing. This process uses an ultraviolet light source to solidify (polymerize) the liquid resin.
What is a resin 3D printer?
A resin 3D printer is a machine that holds a photosensitive liquid resin in a tank and exposes it to a layer of UV LED radiation to harden it into a plastic 3D model. This technology is called SLA or stereolithography and can produce extremely thin 3D prints with a layer height of 0.01 mm.
SLA stands for stereolithography, and the SLA resin 3D printer works with UV laser light that is applied to the surface of a photopolymer container, better known as VAT resin.
The bracket is worn in a specific pattern so that the desired shape can be formed. SLA 3D printers contain several components like a build platform, IVA resin, light source, bracket, and some galvanometers.
The main purpose of the elevator is to increase or decrease the height of the build platform so that layers are formed during the printing process. Galvanometers are two moving mirrors that are used to align a laser beam.
Since the resin bath contains uncured resin, it hardens in layers under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and begins to form a 3D model. Resin 3D printers print layer by layer, and this process is repeated until a fully 3D printed model of the object is completed.
DLP 3D printer
Digital light processing is a technology that is almost similar to an SLA, but instead of lasers, it uses a digital projection surface as the light source.
If you can only print one dot at a time with SLA technology, the DLP 3D printer works by printing an entire layer at a time. Therefore, a DLP 3D printer is much faster than an SLA.
They are also known to be very reliable as they are not a complex system and contain no moving parts. The image on the plane is mostly made up of pixels as the digital display is the starting point of the plane formed by the DLP 3D printer. In 3D printing, the dots have the shape of prisms that can be seen from all three angles.
When a layer is completely printed, the platform is raised to a certain height so that the next layer of the model can be printed.back to menu ↑
Features of the Anycubic Photon 3D printer
Ultra-fast printing resin 3D printer:
ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X has 4 times faster printing speed than ANYCUBIC Photon, comes with a 6.08 inch 2K monochrome LCD display, and only requires one second per layer of exposure. Rapid prototyping greatly improves printing efficiency, improves the resin, and saves more time. Its monochrome LCD screen has a much longer lifespan, which is 4 times longer than an RGB colour monitor and can print over 2000 hours.
High precision and strong stability:
This LCD 3D printer uses a new advanced matrix parallel light source that can distribute UV light more evenly on the LCD screen, and the quality of the printed models is nicer. It is a good 3D printer Sla for printing cartoon characters and miniatures figures.
The metal frame and CNC machined aluminium body make the Photon Mono Se a very impressive machine with a ground aluminium platform, greatly improve the adhesion between platform and print, and allow constant successful printing and double activated carbon to the maximum. Absorbs resin smoke and provides a refreshing printing experience
WIFI Control and Easy Upgrade:
Photon Mono SE uses the Anycubic 3D app via WiFi, which allows you to remotely control printing processes, monitor printing progress and adjust settings of printing at any time. A resin 3D printer is 90% pre-assembled and can be upgraded in a few easy steps.
1 – release the platform; 2 – click “Tools” – “Move Z” – “Start” icon and auto-adjust; 3 – Tighten the screw on the right side of the platform. So ready to print.
Improved thermal separation system:
Anycubic Photon Mono X UV cooling system has a unique UV heat dissipation channel, efficient cooling, which improves print quality and service life. All ANYCUBIC 3D printers come with lifetime technical support and professional 24-hour customer service.back to menu ↑
Buy Anycubic Photon LCD/DLP/SLA 3D Printer accessories
How to use Anycubic Photon 3D Printer for printing
1 Level the printer
Make sure your bed (surface) is flat for each print. Adjust the angle of the print head [once] and then use the Z-axis lock with a sheet of paper.
2 Download the slicing software
You cannot use Cura or other standard cutting software to cut photos or photons for S. This is because the printer does not use standard .gcode files. Instead, it uses a proprietary .photons file, which essentially contains a photo of each layer that will be projected and dried.
- SLA software options: Two programs that you can use include, ChiTuBox or Photon Workshop. Photon Workshop is available on the USB memory supplied with the printer or can be downloaded from the Anycubic website. ChiTuBox is recommended as it is the industry standard for SLA / DLP / LCD 3D printing. This is the “cure” for SLA printing. Download and install the free version from the ChiTuBox download page. If you are using a Mac, you may need to go to System Preferences> Security & Privacy> Open Anyway after starting ChiTuBox for the first time.
3 Configure your Machine
If you are using ChiTuBox for the first time, you need to configure your computer. To do this, start ChiTuBox and click the Add New Printer button. Select AnyCubic Photon from the drop-down menu. Then close the configuration window.
4. Adjust your resin
You need to configure the optimal settings for your specific resin, just as you need to configure the FDM printer settings for different types of filaments. You can use Anycubic green resin that comes with the printer. These are the settings in this worksheet for printing with a layer height of 0.04mm:
|Layer height||Exposure ime||Off time||Bottom exposure||Bottom layers|
You can configure this in Settings> Printing. Use the off-time value in the table for the lowest on delay and off delay.
5. Select your model and import it
One cool thing about SLA printers compared to FDM printers is that adding more models to an SLA doesn’t always increase print time. As long as the additional models are shorter than the top model, there is no difference in printing time. This is because the same number of layers is created. Very good!
- Scale model: Drag the model to the ChiTuBox to load it. If your model is larger than the build deck, click the Resize button in the sidebar and then select the desired size or choose Scale to Fit. Make sure the model touches the window! To do this, click the slider in the sidebar and select Put to disk.
6. (Optional) Excavate the model and add drainage holes
This step is optional but recommended to save resin and reduce the peel strength of the print when changing layers.
Excavation is specific to SLA pressure, and drains holes must be added for resin flow. Sometimes you will find a ready-made model in this way; Otherwise, use the Hollow and Dig Hole buttons on the top of the ChiTuBox to prepare them.
7. Slice the model
If this is your first time printing, you can leave the default settings as is and click the File button to cut the model. Save the created .photons file to an external USB drive, e.g. Eg B., the one that came with the printer.
8. Put on safety equipment
Wear nitrile gloves and glasses as you don’t want the uncured resin to touch your skin or eyes. It is best to wear UV-resistant safety glasses if you want to open the printer while printing. Otherwise, make sure the printer cover is always closed when you turn it on to prevent the light from damaging your eyes.
9. Add your resin
Shake the resin bottle for 5-10 seconds. Then fill the barrel with resin up to the first sloping “line”—this amount of resin prints more than you think. If you need to add more for a very large print, you can do so while it is printing. Pour it very slowly, and many will say don’t stop printing as it can damage it.
After you’ve been printing for a while, you can add less resin because you know how much you will need for a given print. When you’re done, close the front cover. Make sure the printer is on a level surface, or resin will build up.
10. Start loading and printing
Unfortunately, photos and photons can only be uploaded via USB.
Insert the USB drive containing the generated .photons file into the USB port on the right side of the printer. Select Print from the main menu, select your printout and click the print icon that looks like the play button.
When the print is completed, you need to clean the resin and let it cure completely.
- Delete print: Use the included scraper to carefully remove the circuit board from the plate. Then press under the sink to remove any excess resin.
- Clean the print: Use use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to clean the uncured resin. There are several ways to do this, including using an ultrasonic bath but preferably soak the print in an IPA bath for about 3 minutes.
- If you spray the resin on your skin or another surface, immediately and thoroughly clean the area with soap and water.
- Healing impression: Finally, leave the print in the sun or under a UV lamp to allow it to dry completely and maximize its strength.
- Removal of IPA: To properly dispose of IPA-saturated “bathwater”, leave the container in the sun to allow the resin to set, then pour the water through a coffee or paint filter into a clean container for safe disposal.
Never clean your printouts in the kitchen or other places where food is being prepared unless the resin manufacturer has issued a safety data sheet (SDS) that says there is no health hazard if swallowed.
12. Clean the machine
Even though your printer is fully cured, you will need to clean it. Remove the resin container and clean it with a little alcohol and paper towels. Put isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on a paper towel and gently wipe the projector LCD screen and printhead.
Reuse excess resin
If you want to recycle any excess resin, run it through the paper filters that came with the printer and pour it into the resin bottle. While resin can be expensive, recycling is not always advisable because the resin particles may cause printing problems.back to menu ↑
BUY NOW – Best Anycubic Photon LCD/DLP/SLA 3D Printer prices
Do 3D resin printers need ventilation?
When a 3D resin is printing, it creates both UP and VOCs, including styrene. While not hazardous in tiny amounts, frequent inhalation of styrene can be detrimental to the human body. As a result, whenever the 3D printing process is started, ventilation is required.back to menu ↑
Is Anycubic resin toxic?
Any resin used in 3D printing is extremely hazardous, not just to individuals but to the environment as well. Any body part that comes into direct contact with the resin can be damaged, and inappropriate handling of the resin can affect animals and the environment.
- Well lit when printing
- Great online community
- At an attractive price
- Easy adjustment
- No assembly required
- Very good layer resolution 25 - 100 µm
- Good installation and cleaning instructions
- Good software: Anycubic Photon Slicer software
- Ideal device for beginners
- Good value for money
- Printing takes a long time
- Slightly smaller installation space: only 115 x 65 x 155mm
- Resin 3D printers are generally not the best, they can get dirty and the filament is harmful to health
- Resin requires tedious 3D printer cleaning
- Tedious post-processing
- Due to the dangerous resin, safety measures are necessary.